Wednesday, 30 January 2013

How to Kick Your Jeans Habit

We're not announcing a ban on denim. But we do think you should branch out. For moves that will set you apart, learn how to wear trousers, dress chinos, motopants, and more—just like the Internet's illest dance phenomenon, Lil Buck "
 1. Winner of the 2013 "Every Man Must Wear These Pants" Award
When you finally peel off your beloved jeans, the first thing you should step into is a pair of simple gray trousers. Wear them in all the ways you wore those jeans, just like Buck does here. Nerd note: These are tropical wool—made for spring and summer.

Pants, $248 by Diesel.

From left:
Polo shirt, $1,090 by Louis Vuitton. Loafers, $70 by Perry Ellis Portfolio. Hat by Biltmore. Watch by Bell & Ross. Bracelet by Tiffany & Co.

Jacket, $2,258 by Neil Barrett. T-shirt, $16 by American Apparel. Sneakers, $75 by Vans. Sunglasses by Super. Necklace by David Yurman. Watch by Cartier. Belt by Charvet.

Sports jacket, $895 by Emporio Armani. Shirt $395 by Ralph Lauren Black Label Denim. Tie, $49 by DIBI. Shoes, $995 by Salvatore Ferragamo. Pocket square by the Tie Bar. Belt by Gucci.

2. Like Jeans But with More Horsepower
The French brand Balmain made biker-inspired motopants a sensation, but now more reasonably priced designers have caught up. The pants are tough and more than a little rock 'n' roll. Wear them with black and you'll never go wrong.

Practical function: Keeps your wallet off the highway. Style function: Sets these apart from plain ol' jeans.

Knee Patches
Bikers need their pants to be skinny; knee patches allow for movement, whether you ride a Ducati or an Aeron.

It's not that we tailored these short—this is how motopants fit. Works with Hells Angels boots or beer-run Vans.

"Matt Dillon's character in Rumble Fish would wear these today. I wear mine every day, mostly with boots but occasionally with monkstraps and a blazer. They make a statement, and the price is right."—Rogue designer Jimmy Reilly

Pants, $185 by Rogue. Tank top, $38 (for three) by Calvin Klein Underwear. Sneakers, $75 by Vans. Ssunglasses by Fabien Baron. Necklace by Tiffany & Co. Watch by Cartier. Belt by Baldwin.
3. The Best Way to Hold All These Pants Up
Give your conservative office belt the day—maybe even the summer—off by adding one of these nylon, ribbon, or even crocodile D-ring belts to your repertoire. It's the smallest things that get the most compliments.

From left: Belt (orange), $25 by Penfield. Belt, $125 by Caputo & Co. Belt, $115 by Gant by Michael Bastian. Belt, $34 by Scotch & Soda. Belt, $1,250 by Ralph Lauren.
4. We're Taking Linen Back from the Retirees
It's the slim cut that separates you from the blue hairs. Just remember: Linen's natural wrinkles add character, like distressing on broken-in denim.

Pants, $995 by Giorgio Armani. Cardigan, $780 by Prada. Shirt, $280 by Band of Outsiders. Shoes, $420 by Seize sur Vingt. Sunglasses by Ray-Ban. Watch by Longines.
5. Not All Pockets Are Created Equal: Three Different Cuts You Need to Know
Yep, it's geeky. But different kinds of pockets can change the way a pair of pants fits your body type. Find the right pockets for your shape and style—and never look back.

On-Seam Pockets
Not many guys will say it out loud, but let's be real: Some of us have big hips, we know it, and we'd ideally like to hide them. If you're that dude, on-seam pockets will slim you down.

Pants, $485 by Michael Bastian. Shirt by Ovadia & Sons. Tie by Ralph Lauren Black Label. Wallet by Ermenegildo Zegna.
Quarter Pockets
The most common. If you're constantly using your pockets—for your phone, for your wallet, or just to have something to do with your hands—these are the most convenient.

Pants, $400 by Kenzo. Shirt by Polo Ralph Lauren. Belt by Dolce & Gabbana. Key holder by Louis Vuitton.
Continental Pockets
Or "slant pockets." For your inner European. Originally found on British military uniforms, perfect for someone obsessed with minute, unique details.

Pants, $450 by Prada. Shirt by Mark McNairy New Amsterdam. Sunglasses by Fabien Baron.

6. When You're Ready to Take the Next Step
Once you've got a pair of basic pants, forge ahead into the terrain of patterned trousers. Labels like Gant Rugger have stripped away the Caddyshack vibe by slimming them down and going minimalist with the patterns.

"As long as you keep everything else simple, glen plaid pants won't make you look like a douche. I'd wear them with a blue oxford shirt or a polo and chocolate brogues or sneakers."—Gant creative director Christian Bastin

Pants, $350 by Gant Rugger. Sweater, $215 by Band of Outsiders. Sneakers, $530 by Marc Jacobs. Cap by Polo Ralph Lauren. Bracelet by Tateossian.

7. Make 'Em Green with Envy
From Milan to N.Y.C., we kept noticing different designers showing icy green pants like these at the fashion shows. If they jumped out at us on the runways, they'll do the same for you on the street.

Can't see yourself in green? All good. Chinos come in myriad colors, from tangerine dreamto purple haze.

8. Three Ways to Ditch the Belt and Streamline Your Look

The 2013 Dandy
In the bespoke days of yore, men scoffed at belt loops. Were the pants not made for you, sir? Side tabs let you adjust on the fly (and save at the tailor).

Pants, $448 by Richard James. Shirt by Band of Outsiders. Watch by TAG Heuer.
The Hollywood Nostalgist
See that V-split in the waist seam, known as a notched waist? That offered ease for Robert Redford types in higher-waisted suit pants.

Pants, $150 by Club Monaco. Shirt by Michael Bastian. Watch by Bell & Ross.
The Urban Minimalist
Designers are bringing back the waist-extension tab, which gives you a sexier profile than a button. Style points for your crotch area!

Pants, $225 by Surface to Air. Shirt by Saturdays NYC.
9. The Cuff vs. the Roll: An Existential Pants Question Finally Answered
Some guys are rolling when they should cuff, and vice versa. The rule:
If the fabric is formal—wool suit pants, say—have a tailor cuff them.

Pants, $640 by Jil Sander. Shoes, $740 by Salvatore Ferragamo.
If they're more casual—chinos or cargos—roll like Willie Nelson in Amsterdam.

Pants, $150 by Kenneth Cole New York. Shoes, $270 by N.D.C. Made by Hand.
10. Because Not All Khakis Are All Casual
There's a breed of khakis that's not meant to get ketchup-stained. These are office-ready dress khakis—think Damian Lewis in uniform on Homeland. They should be cut slim and short, creased like suit trousers, and dressed up.

Pants, $60 by Calvin Klein. Shirt, $250 by Burberry London. Tie, $150 by Alexander Olch. Loafers, $695 by Salvatore Ferragamo. Hat by Gents. Belt by Gant by Michael Bastian.

Pants, $420 by Prada. Sweater vest, $735, and polo, $880 by Prada. Shoes, $740 by Salvatore Ferragamo. Watch by Timex for J.Crew

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