The 10 Best-Dressed Men of the Week: 03.24.14

	WHO Sebastian Stan WHAT Calvin Klein Collection WHERE Captain America: The Winter Soldier premiere, London WHEN March 20, 2014
WHO Andrew Garfield WHAT Tod’s loafers WHERE Amazing Spider-Man 2 Photo call in Sydney WHEN March 20, 2014
	WHO Chris Evans WHAT Etro WHERE Captain America: The Winter Soldier premiere, London WHEN March 20, 2014
WHO Ryan Tedder WHERE On the street, London WHEN March 21, 2014
	WHO Pharrell Williams WHERE 2nd Annual Rebels With A Cause Gala, Hollywood WHEN March 20, 2014
WHO Thomas Brodie-Sangster WHERE On the street, New York City WHEN March 19, 2014
	WHO Finn Jones WHERE Game Of Thrones Season 4 premiere, New York City WHEN March 18, 2014
WHO Gabriel Mann WHAT Ermenegildo Zegna Couture WHERE Cesar Chavez premiere, Los Angeles WHEN March 21, 2014
	WHO Alfie Allen WHAT Marc Jacobs WHERE Game Of Thrones Season 4 premiere, New York City WHEN March 18, 2014
WHO Theo James WHERE The Cinema Society screening of Divergent, New York City WHEN March 20, 2014

Aaron Taylor-Johnson in the Season's Best Plaid Suits

Over time, the gray suit has become the second skin of businessmen around the world. But in the competitive waters of corporate culture, the new move is to be the man with big, bold, bright ideas that stand out. Here, 'Kick-Ass 2' star Aaron Taylor-Johnson shows how a sharply tailored suit can put you at the top of the food chain.

World's Youngest Super-Dad
Aaron Taylor-Johnson's résumé has the logic of a Dalí painting. He works infrequently. His roles are extreme. He's basically the inverse of typecast, having played a pubescent John Lennon, a comic-book nerd turned vigilante (Kick-Ass, the first and second), a polyamorous—with Serena van der Woodsen and Tim Riggins!—pot tycoon in Oliver Stone's Savages, and a poodle-ish Count Vronsky (Anna Karenina). But it's the quality of the young Brit's personal life that contrasts most surreally with the roles. At 23, he holes up in London nearly full-time ("I'm trying to do just one movie a year; that'd be a luxury," he says) with his 46-year-old wife, artist/director Sam Taylor-Johnson, their two young daughters, and her two kids from a previous marriage. (She poached him directly from the set of the Lennon movie, and they swapped surnames.) Accordingly, he seems to regard his career with a middle-aged evenness, dismissing the awesome parts of being an actor: "Turning down roles just means more family." As though, say, training to fight a freshly conceived, freshly pissed Godzilla (his next film) is simply a vacation from family life: "We were assigned a Marine who's worked a bunch of movies. That was very new to me." Same as running up a body count in Kick-Ass 2 alongside foulmouthed, super scandalizing 16-year-old Chloë Grace Moretz: "I mean, when I first worked with her, she was 12. So she's older now, yes, but she was already way more mature than most teenagers, anyway." Or filming threesome sex scenes with Blake Lively and Taylor Kitsch: "If you agree to do a sex scene, you have to be willing to not be awkward about it. C'mon! I don't think of it as anything other than a dance, really. I don't see that person. I don't think of me being me." Oh, what men will do to support their families.

—Alice Gregory

Suit, $1,625 by Calvin Klein. Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers. Shirt, $240, by Thom Browne New York. Tie, $125, by Ovadia & Sons. Raincoat by Mackintosh. Watch by Bulova

Think of It as a Visual Business Card
Style in the work world isn't just about clothes. It includes: your comportment, your work ethic, and yes, a loud-and-proud suit that says, "I'm not just another drone."

Suit, $1,590, by Gant by Michael Bastian. Shirt, $385, by Ermenegildo Zegna. Tie, $115, by Ralph Lauren Black Label. Tie bar by The Tie Bar. Pocket square by Sid Mashburn. Belt by Salvatore Ferragamo.

The Two-and-a-Half-Piece Suit
We heard somewhere that this is the most colorful fall ever, and look! More proof. Try layering in a V-neck that picks up a tone in your plaid suit—and leave your winter coat in the closet as long as possible.

Suit, $2,150, by Valentino. Sweater, $695, by Burberry London. Shirt, $295, by Ralph Lauren Black Label. Tie, $155, Band of Outsiders. Briefcase by Smythson

 

Run a Tighter Ship
Wearing a plaid suit is going to get you noticed and remembered—that’s the point. It also means your whole look needs to be put together with confidence, poise, and know-how. This is that know-how.

1. Shirt
To look modern, it's gotta be a crisp-as-hell dress shirt (not a more casual sport shirt) with a smallish semi-spread collar.

2. Tie
You can play it safe with a solid, or go big (like this guy here) by wearing a small pattern that contrasts with your suit's bigger plaid.

3. Tie bar
Nothing locks your look in place like a tie bar. It shouldn't be wider than your tie, and right now we're feeling these short 'n' subtle ones.

4. Pocket square
The one thing that can look nonchalant. Fold it and shove it in your pocket, showing about an inch. Now grab your briefcase

Suit jacket, $1,150, by Calvin Klein. Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers. Shirt, $325, by Ralph Lauren Black Label. Tie, $15, tie bar, $15, and pocket square, $8, by The Tie Bar.

Master the Merger
Mixing different patterns is easier than you think. In fact, there's a formula: One big pattern + one small pattern + one solid = success.

The Bag Needs an Update Too
Carrying that same ole' busted briefcase with your new bold plaid suit would be like putting hub caps on a Ferrari. Finish strong with a folio like this brown one from Coach.

Blue and Brown: the Greatest Merger in History
It's true. There isn't a single shade of brown or blue that can't be paired together and look handsome. In fact, we dare you to try and prove us wrong.

GQ's Spring Preview 2013: Less is More

It might be colder than a snowman's nuts outside, but all the clothes that are going to make your spring are already hitting stores. (Yes, really.) Here, we show you why the season ahead is all about simplifying. The point isn't to go monkishly minimal—it's about making every piece you wear count

 

Antony Starr
Age: 37
Tune in: Banshee (upcoming on Cinemax)
Role: Ex-con Lucas Hood

01. First Things First: Let Your Tie Bloom

Yes, this spring is about keeping it simple—but you need one piece that brings your look to life. Instead of mixing busy patterns, try taking a solid suit and shirt and then bringing them to life with a print tie.

Suit, $1,625 and shirt, $295 by Dolce & Gabbana. Tie, $97 by The Hill-Side. Tie bar by The Tie Bar. Pocket square by Paul Stuart.

JD Pardo
Age: 32
Tune in: Revolution (NBC)
Role: Jason Neville, the militia’s go-to guy

2. Sure, There Are Fifty Shades of Gray. Choose the Palest One.

Conventional wisdom says your gray suit should fall on the darker side of the spectrum. Let's smash the conventional wisdom. Once the weather warms up, pale gray is flat-out cooler—in every sense of the word.

Suit, $1,125, shirt, $295, and tie, $195, by Calvin Klein Collection. Loafers, $1,350 by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture.

Sterling Sulieman
Age: 28
Tune in: The New Normal (NBC)
Role: NeNe Leakes's strapping, conservative brother

3. That Pale Thing Applies to Colors, Too

Your girlfriend calls these pastels, but we like to think of them as chalky. Wear one at a time, or mix several if you want the double takes.

Sports jacket, $750 by Michael Bastian. Shirt, $154, and pants, $198, by Closed. Tie, $115 by Ralph Lauren Black Label. Sweatshirt, $175 by Todd Snyder. Watch by Rolex. Hat by Polo Ralph Lauren.

4. Look Fly. Stay Dry.

Designers have been tweaking rubberized Mackintosh-style raincoats for 200 years. This season's revelation? Suiting patterns like windowpane.

Trench coat, $1,510 by Marc Jacobs. Polo shirt, $98 by Marc by Marc Jacobs. Khakis, $395 by Band of Outsiders. Sneakers, $70 by Converse. Belt by C.S. Simko. Hat by Bally.

 

5. Loafing: Now Encouraged at Work

The shoe of the season? Loafers. They used to be strictly casual, but right now you can march into work in them.

Loafers, $580 by Gucci. Suit, $456 by J.Crew Ludlow.

6. If the Suit Is Pale, the Shirt Can Pop

We meant it when we said you should wear chalky colors. But don't miss the chance to electrify a pale gray suit with this bubblegum pink shirt that pops.

Shirt, $40 by American Eagle Outfitters. Suit jacket, $298 by J.Crew Ludlow. Tie, $15, tie bar, and pocket square by The Tie Bar.

07. A Belt with a Ring to It

Fashion is strange: Suddenly one belt becomes the coolest thing since Miles Davis. Right now, the D-ring is our go-to pants-holder-upper.

Belt, $115 by Gant by Michael Bastian. Pants, $150 by DKNY. Sports jacket and tie by Polo Ralph Lauren. Shirt by Patrik Ervell.

Reid Scott
Age: 35
Tune in: Veep (HBO)
Role: Dan Egan, the vice president’s deputy communications director

8. Stay (All the Way) Solid

We've championed patterned shirts and ties more than anyone, but less is more right now, remember? This spring, solid colors look super-sharp, not snoozy. Especially when you think beyond just classic white and blue dress shirts and reach for a new strain of green.

Suit, $1,625, and shirt, $295, by Dolce & Gabbana. Tie, $97 by The Hill-Side. Tie bar by The Tie Bar. Pocket Square by Paul Stuart.

Ben Feldman
Age: 32
Tune in: Mad Men (AMC)
Role: Michael Ginsberg, Don Draper’s brilliant wiseass copywriter

9. Not Even James Dean Thought of This

But we're sure he'd approve. Your jean jacket should fit as snug as a cardigan—so why not rock it like one? Just put it on under a sport coat and go.

Jean jacket, $1,120 by Brunello Cucinelli. Sports jacket, $695 by Gant by Michael Bastian. Shirt, $265 by Nick Wooster for Hamilton 1883. Pants, $192 by J Brand. Belt by Scotch & Soda

Teddy Sears
Age: 35
Tune in: Masters of Sex (upcoming on Showtime)
Role: Dr. Austin Langham, sex researcher and philanderer

10. Meet Khaki's Sophisticated Brother

Got the khaki suit down pat? Good. Now try stepping up to brown in either single-breasted or double.

Suit, $2,800 by Bottega Veneta. Polo shirt, $198 by Diesel Black Gold. Belt by Tom Ford.

11.And Chuck Taylor's (Very Rich) Cousin

Dressing up doesn't mean no-sneakers-allowed. Especially if they're high-end sneakers that never look sloppy.

Sneakers, $840 by Hermès

12. Out of the Dugout, onto the Street

The freshest leather jacket right now is the baseball jacket. Don't be afraid to knot up a tie with it.

Jacket, $1,575, and pants, $395, by Emporio Armani. Shirt, $375 by Salvatore Piccolo. Loafers, $545 by Tod’s. Belt by J.Crew.

13. A Squarer Wayfarer

We tried on every new pair of glasses, but this squared-off take on the classic reigned supreme.

Sunglasses, $95 by Warby Parker.

14. The Wider a Man's Brim, the Bigger His Style. 
Or something like that. Ditch the porkpies and fedoras and go big with an old-school Panama.

Hat, $350 by Borsalino at JJ Hat Center. Suit, $1,725 by Neil Barrett. Shirt, $65 by Tommy Hilfiger. Tie, $195 by Dior Homme. Tie bar by The Tie Bar. Pocket square by Brunello Cucinelli.

15. Trust the Italians to Think of This

One pocket square, two colors of piping. Style ingenuity from the country that knows suits best.

Pocket square, $135 by by Brunello Cucinelli. Sports jacket, $1,350 by by Polo Ralph Lauren.

Leslie Odom Jr.
Age: 31
Tune in: Smash (NBC)
Role:Insanely charming chorus member Sam Strickland

16. Teach Your Casual Clothes to Dance

Sometimes it's not the clothes you buy, it's how you put them together. Take a cardigan and khakis. Put them together as carefully as you would a tux. They're capable of moves you can't imagine.

Cardigan, $648 by Etro. Shirt, $750 by Giorgio Armani. Tie, $85 by The Hill-Side. Khakis, $450 by Prada. Loafers, $590 by Gucci. Tie bar by The Tie Bar. Hat by Stetson.

Josh Bowman
Age: 24
Tune in: Revenge (ABC)
Role: Handsome Hamptons-bred Daniel Grayson

17. This Blazer Doesn't Pack Heat

Your style shouldn't go limp as the temp rises. Now there are killer textured blazers in fabrics like this toothy linen- and-wool blend.

Suit jacket, $3,520 by Tom Ford.

18. The Sweet Spot Between a Dress Shirt and a Tee

Don't settle for the same old polo when you can now get ones with ribbing and piping. The polo shirt is progressing, and style is all about evolution, right?

Polo sweater, $395 by Todd Snyder. Pants, $645 by Prada. Pocket square by Brunello Cucinelli. Glasses by Topman.

Channing Tatum: Movie Star of the Year 2012

Yes, he was a stripper. Yes, he was in Step Up—and Step Up 2: The Streets. But after a year like this, when he showed not just his abs and his glutes but his smarts and his inner Stanislavsky, it's time to give Channing Tatum his due. Meet America's newest bona fide movie star

It's about two in the afternoon when I finally see the day starting to wear on Channing Tatum. They're setting up the next shot for his movie, White House Down, and Channing is sitting in a director's chair wearing a wife-beater and some pants, plus a bloody gash on his arm and some spray-on movie soot. (His hair looks marvelous.)

The movie is basically Die Hard in the White House. It's the kind of movie in which Channing shoots everything "except for maybe a Javelin missile. But the president might get to shoot a missile, I'm not saying." They're filming today outside Montreal, at a driving range housed in an enormous inflatable bubble. The turf of the range has been covered by a vast carpeting of actual sod, on top of which are cameras and lights, crashed helicopters, fire engines, ambulances, and the entire back facade of the White House, rebuilt to scale, with some gashes in the pillars.
Channing Tatum is an indefatigable dude. He's relentlessly energetic and positive and upbeat. He is just happy to be here. He is grateful to be here. But right now, Channing actually looks like a guy who spent the past twelve hours crawling around on his hands and knees saving the world and the nuclear football and the president, etc. For an indefatigable dude, he looks, you know, defatigable.

Okay, part of it is that he skipped lunch to go work out with his trainer, which he does twice a day. They've built a gym for him near the bubble. (Jamie Foxx uses it, too.)

"We have a trailer we go in and do meatheadish things," Channing says.

How'd it go today, workout-wise?

"It was good, it was good. Deadlifted 425."

He is not, of course, simply tired from whaling delts/deadlifting 425. He whales on his delts all the time at home, and he hardly ever gets tired. It's more that White House Down is about to wrap after two months of six-day weeks. And he crammed this movie into the space between reshooting G.I. Joe: Retaliation and starting Foxcatcher, directed by Bennett Miller, which begins in less than a week.

I have spoken to professionals in the filmed-entertainment business about Channing's shooting schedule, and the verdict: insane. Sadistically insane, possibly not-good-for-career burnout insane. But: "Big actors have told me to get it while the getting is good. Grind it."

Who told you that?

"Ahhh, I'm not gonna drop names," he says. "You know, very successful, smart actors. And they were like: 'Grind it. If you love it, grind it.' I did. They said: 'And a lot of people who didn't grind it, it's not that they're not in a good place, but I'm in a better place.' "

This was the year that launched Channing Tatum into that special, lonely orbit in which one's dream career becomes an almost cannibalistically demanding job. He starred in three films. 21 Jump Street. The Vow. Magic Mike. Every one of these films not only way outperformed what they were meant to, box-office-wise, but seemed to cement the notion that people go to movies just to see Channing Tatum.

It's not right to boil a guy down like this, but here's a theory about who he is: He's the star football player whom you have to tutor in algebra, only to discover that, deep down, he's got just a giant heart. That boiled-downness can be experienced in its purest form in Magic Mike, based on the real-life stripping career of Channing Tatum. It's not merely that he has an uncanny ability to retain his dignity while greased up in only a shirt collar, pop-and-locking his junk onto the floor while twirling an umbrella. It's that you believe the odds are stacked against him. Maybe it's that his mouth can never get out of the way of the words he's saying, but you root for him. Just like you root for him when he yells "Fuck you, science!" at a dry-erase board full of numbers in 21 Jump Street.

Or consider The Vow, about a guy teaching his amnesiac wife to love him again. "I did The Vow because I really love being in love," he tells me. That's who Channing Tatum is. A guy who takes his vacations doing survival trips in the Amazon with former SAS members (true) and desperately wants to fight a sanctioned MMA bout but also tells you he loves being in love, and you just want to be like, COME HERE AND GIVE ME A HUG, BRO.

A man wanders by with a box full of "burritos beef" that he hawks with a French accent. Channing looks at the box like he wants to mount it. He glances hopefully at his trainer. The trainer shakes his head, like: You know better than that. Channing turns away from the box, and his face is steely with resolve. You can sleep, and have burritos beef, when you're dead, Channing Tatum. Right now you have a meeting with the president of the United States on his helicopter.

Jamie Foxx, duh, plays the president.

Suit by Calvin Klein Collection. Shirt by Ralph Lauren Black Label. Tie by DiBi. Shoes by Tom Ford. Socks by Pantherella . Pocket square by Paul Stuart . watch by Georg Jensen.

This Suit Can Talk
And it's saying, "I've got confidence." Business suits with a slight sheen to the fabric—usually a wool-mohair blend—are back in style. Just make sure your shine is subtle, not blinding.

Suit by Tom Ford. Shirt by John Varvatos. Tie by Burberry Prorsum. Shoes by Salvatore Ferragamo. Tie bar and pocket square by The Tie Bar.

Do You Know What Slim Means?
Tight means you can't move. Slim means you can break-dance. To get the right fit, find the size that's one up from too damn restrictive. Then let your tailor do the rest.

Suit by Dolce & Gabbana. Shirt by John Varvatos. Tie by Band of Outsiders. Shoes by Salvatore Ferragamo. Socks by Pantherella. Pocket square by Paul Stuart.

How to Choose Your Supporting Cast
If you start piling on the blingy accessories while wearing a shiny suit, you can start to look like a contract killer in a B movie. Follow this leading man's lead and keep the accoutrements minimal.

Suit and tie by Emporio Armani. Shirt by Charvet at MrPorter.com. Tie bar by and pocket square The Tie Bar.

Re-Tweeded

We're just gonna say it: You absolutely must have tweed in your wardrobe this winter, and you don't need to own a pipe or an Irish castle to make it work. To prove how much the once fusty fabric has evolved, we took Jack Huston—star of Boardwalk Empire and the grandson of John Huston—to Dublin, where the streets are paved with tweed

 Runs in the Family
To play Richard Harrow, a maimed vet turned soft-spoken killing machine on HBO's Boardwalk Empire, Jack Huston shares a disability with his subject: He must act with a tin shell covering half his face, the side blown to bits during World War I. "Most people wear a mask to hide. I put one on to be recognized," says the actor, who despite the haunting handicap manages to steal every scene he's in. Huston shrugs off the relative anonymity; he has a fondness for disappearing. At 14, he ditched boarding school. "I was just done," says the actor, now 29

FAQ 2017: The GQ Guide to Suits | how to choose the right suit for your body

Different types of suits design:

Learn to suit up properly and everything else follows.
Whether you're an office guy who needs to look sharp for the competition, or a creative type who dresses up because he likes to, the suit is the basic building block of looking good. It's a timeless, ever adaptable, sometimes maligned, but never improved uniform. Consider the roots of that word: uni, as in a universally good idea to save your ass from the danger of too much choice; form, as in the opposite of formless, sloppy, or unfocused. We'll get to the specifics of lapel widths and armholes and vents and how to do it right, but let's first agree that this is where dressing like a man begins. Get the basics down and then you can lose yourself in perfecting the details—what the ever dapper Tom Wolfe once approvingly called the sartorial "mania for marginal differences." And that's when things get interesting.

Types of suits for men's body types

1. What the Twenty-first- Century Suited Man Looks Like

Check out Christoph Waltz here and you'll see more than just a sharp-dressed man—you'll see a completely contemporary man. What's the secret? The trimness of the suit? Sure. The elegance of the details? Totally. But look a little closer and you'll notice what's not here: no aggressive plaids, no I'm-the-man pinstripes, no four-button jacket. Instead, the message is smart, confident, thoroughly put together. He makes a statement by not making one—or at least looking as if he's not trying so hard to make one. Like the best in modern design, his suit is simple and streamlined, perfectly crafted. That's the look you want.

2. More Than Ever, It's About Fit
That's our mantra here at GQ. It's what we preach every issue. Doesn't matter what kind of suit you're investing in, whether it's $200 or $2,000, flannel or seersucker, two-button or three. We've seen plenty of guys who've bought the right suit and let it hang off them like an NBA rookie on draft night. And we've seen men in cheap but well-tailored suits who look like a million bucks. The thing's got to fit right, or else there's no point in wearing it. Question is, what's the right fit, and how do you get it?
A. Take It from the Top
A good suit should hug your shoulders, not slouch off them. Most guys think they're a size larger than they are—say, a 42 regular instead of a 40. When buying a suit, go ahead and try sizing down. When you pull on the jacket, there should be a firmness to it. You should snap to attention and stand taller. If it doesn't fit right in the shoulders, don't buy it.

3. Wanna Step It Up? Nail the Finer Points
You know how a suit should fit. But what about all the details that define the style of a suit? You've got countless options. Here are the ones that matter most, the ones that make for an infallible suit.
F. Start with the Lapels
Nothing does more to dictate a suit's character than the lapel. We like a slim one, about two inches at its widest point. It's modern without being rock-star skinny.
G. Go for Two
We swear by a two-button suit jacket. Sure, a three-button that's cut well can do the job, but a two-button is much more consistently reliable, no matter your shape or size. We typically opt for ones with low-button stances, because they create a long, slimming torso. They're foolproof.
H. Ticket, Please
Ticket pocket? Sure. If you're into more of a British-dandy vibe, go for it.
I. Cause a Flap
We like a traditional flap pocket. There's something a bit too '90s about those slit pockets.

J. Feel Free to Vent
Finally, don't ignore the back of the jacket. It plays an integral role in a suit's character. Generally, we prefer a center vent; it's unobtrusive and keeps the lines of the suit clean and simple. Side vents, like these here, make more of a statement. They're a bit more...rakish.

4. To Cuff or Not to Cuff
Designer Michael Bastian on how the right call can make or break a suit
"I like cuffs on pants of just about any fabric. Of course, when you're dealing with heavier corduroys and tweeds, the cuffs serve a purpose: They give the pants some weight, so they fall better. I say, if you're gonna go for a cuff, go for it; make it at least an inch and a quarter deep. As for the break, 90 percent of guys keep it classic, where the front of your pants hits the top bit of your shoes and the back of them touches the tops of your heels. That always works—but if you know what you're doing, then you can play around a bit and show a little ankle. Bring a pair of shoes to the tailor's to get the length just right and always follow that old rule 'Measure twice, cut once.' It's easy to go a little shorter, but it's impossible to go a little longer."

My First Suit: The Keeps-on-Ticking Hand-Me-Down
Kirk Miller
Miller's Oath, N.Y.C.
"I got this really simple two-button summer khaki by Paul Stuart that was a hand-me-down from Goodwill. It was beat-up, with scuffed elbows, and basically it was really badass. I must've worn the jacket for a year straight. It was a 37 short, which almost no one but Paul Stuart makes. It's funny, actually, because I almost gave it away the other day—but then I thought, 'No, no! I can't give that away.' "

5. How to Suit Your Shape
Shelly here is about five feet four and, well, not exactly runway skinny. But even without hitting the gym, he looks like a new man by choosing the right suit. Anyone who's short or a bit heavyset should take notes.
Before
• An overly roomy suit—even a pricey one like this—makes you look sloppy.
• Avoid long suit jackets. They actually make your legs look shorter.

• Excess fabric, especially below the knee, adds pounds.

After
Be honest with yourself. Admit you're short and buy short-length suits.
• Wear a pocket square. It brings the focus to your chest, not your belly.
• A lower button stance creates long lines, essentially stretching you out.
• Show some cuff to lengthen the look of your arms.
• A pant leg with very little break will help you look taller.
• Big man, solid shoe. Choose shoes that have a substantial sole. You need something to anchor your weight.

After
Be honest with yourself. Admit you're short and buy short-length suits.
• Wear a pocket square. It brings the focus to your chest, not your belly.
• A lower button stance creates long lines, essentially stretching you out.
• Show some cuff to lengthen the look of your arms.
• A pant leg with very little break will help you look taller.
• Big man, solid shoe. Choose shoes that have a substantial sole. You need something to anchor your weight.

Three Styles That Help You Stand Out
No. 1: The New Slim, Trim Double-Breasted
• If you want a double-breasted suit to look modern—and not like something from a gangster flick—keep it short and trim. And avoid Dick Tracy-grade shoulder pads, too.
• Keep the jacket buttoned (including the interior button). It doesn't hang well when undone.
• And unlike with single-breasted suits, unless you want to look like a singer in the '80s R&B band, go for a higher-cut six-button suit instead of a low-slung four-button model.

My First Suit: The Green Monster
Nick Cave
"The first suit I ever bought was from a secondhand place in New York when I was on tour there in the early '80s. It was three pieces, lime green with an orange check. I have no idea what it was made of, only that it melted when you would nod off and the cigarette would fall on your trousers. And I was actually imprisoned in it. I was busted buying drugs on the Lower East Side, and I was thrown in a holding pen in this ridiculous lime green suit. And I was thinking, Jesus, I wish it wasn't lime green. And of course, the one other white guy in the cell runs up and goes, 'Fuck, it's Nick Cave!' And what's more, we had a gig that night. We were staying at the Iroquois hotel, and when the sergeant said, 'Nick Cave, c'mon, make your phone call,' I asked him to call the Iroquois. And he says, 'Can you spell that?' And I'm like 'I... R...' 'Nope! Next!' So I was there for three days, and I missed the shows, sitting there in my lime green suit."

6. Get Thee to a Good Tailor: It's the Wisest Money You'll Ever Spend
The right tailor can make a $100 suit look like $1,000, and he can make that $1,000 suit worth every penny. There's not a GQ shoot where we don't enlist our tailor, Joseph, to nip, tuck, and alter a suit. For your purposes, the trick is knowing what needs to be done and then knowing how to manage your tailor. Don't let him tell you how much of a break you want in your trousers: You tell him. You're the boss. Here's what a good tailoring job will run you.
$40/Sleeves
Most suits are cut too full, including the sleeves. Have them narrowed. It makes a difference.
$30/Cuffs
Tailors hesitate to shorten sleeves. Be adamant—your sleeves should end at the break of your wrists.
$35/Body
Jackets need to be brought in at the waist, to create that V effect.
$35/Pants
Have your pants slimmed an inch from top to bottom. Then shorten them. The narrower the pant leg, the less break you need.

The Essential Can't-Go-Wrong Gray Two-Button Suit
"This is basically the man's version of the little black dress. I call it the no-brainer suit. It works during the day; it works at night. It works at every occasion you'd wear a suit to. But you do need to make sure you're getting the right shade of gray—not one that's light and summery, and definitely not a somber charcoal. You want a gray that's right down the middle. When in doubt, wear it with a white shirt and dark solid tie and—like Cary Grant here—you're always going to be the best-dressed guy in the room"—Jim Moore, GQ creative director

7. Go Short—Shorter Than You Think
Your Suit Is (Probably) Too Long
You might have noticed, on the runways and in our pages, that guys are wearing much shorter suit jackets these days. And it's a look we like. Partly because it goes with the slimmer, trimmer suit style, and also because most guys wear their suits too long.
Here's the deal: You should be able to easily cup your hands beneath your suit jackets. Going full-on Thom Browne short isn't for everyone, but there's no denying the impact of this wave. The average suit at J.Crew or Club Monaco is cut considerably shorter than it was five years ago. The days of the average guy wearing a three-to-five-button suit are thankfully behind us.

8. That Year-Round Suit Ain't Cutting It Anymore
We like to think that you should dress like you eat—seasonally. Not only is it a way to bring some variety to your wardrobe; it's also sensible. When the temperature drops, reach for heavier, warmer fabrics. When it's hot and humid, keep your suiting lightweight and pretty much cotton exclusively.

9. Freezing Your Ass Off? Conquer Winter in Style
Flannel
The man in the gray flannel suit. You can't get more timeless—and flawless—than that.
Corduroy
You don't want too fine a wale (so people mistake it for velvet) nor too wide (which can look a little too Greenwich, Connecticut, Christmas party).
Tweed
Perfect for those transitional months when you can skip the overcoat and just throw on a scarf with your trim-cut tweed sports jacket.
 10. ...And When It's Muggy and Miserable, Keep Your Cool
When the temperature surges past seventy or so, it's time to shelve your wool suits and go lightweight. Yes, khaki is probably the best-known of the summer suits, but don't limit yourself: Designers are doing a range of cotton options, including navy, black, and even plaid. Whether you have the cojones to pull off a white one is your call. Other go-to cotton options include seersucker (go with gray or pale blue stripes) and whipcord (which has ridges like corduroy—without the fuzziness). Finally, there's linen, the lightest material of them all. Just make sure yours is cut sharp and slim, unlike the stuff you see flopping in the sea breeze in the Florida Keys.

Three Styles That Help You Stand Out
No. 2: The Young Man's Three-Piece
• A three-piece suit announces itself loudly and clearly—which means you sould opt for a relatively subdued shirt-and-tie combo to provide balance.
• Fitwise, think about the vest. It should hit at the belt buckle (not dip past it), and it should wrap snugly around your torso.
• Mix it up. Ditch the jacket and stride around the office in just the vest (very manly, indeed). Or you can always leave the vest at home and wear the suit as a conventional two-piece.

My First Suit: The Italian Job
Paul Smith
"The first suit I ever got had a name—it was called the San Remo. It was three, possibly four buttons, with very high lapels. It was in the style of all those movies like La Docle Vita and ones by Antonioni. I suppose I was 15 or 16, and it was, what, 1856? Let's just say it was in the '60s. And to be clear: I didn't buy it; it was paid for by my parents, probably because we had to go to a family wedding. I remember it was sort of a mucky green—lovat, as we'd say in England. I wore it with a cutaway-collar shirt with strong stripes—what we used to call London stripes—and a dark narrow tie. And my hair looked ridiculous. The trend was to put a lot of Brylcreem in and do it up in a quiff—you know, like Mastroianni in La Dolce Vita. I thought it was pretty cool."

11. It Might Get Loud...So Mute It
We dig a patterned suit, but when we show one in the magazine, or wear one ourselves, we like to keep it subtle. Our aim is to inject a bit of personality without making the guy look like a buffoon. Two examples:
Don't Look Like Pee-Wee Herman
Right now, we really like a shadow plaid suit, like the one here. It's more of a suggestion of plaid than a full-on one, like a classic Prince of Wales. It's easy to wear and offers just enough oomph.

Go for a Thinner Pin
For pinstripes, we tend to avoid bold Wall Street stripes and go with either a fine-line pinstripe (tightly spaced superthin stripes) or a solf chalk stripe on a heavyweight flannel, like the one on the right. Both will elicit compliments, not guffaws.

The Style Guy
When it comes to suits, Glenn O'Brien insists on one of a kind
I got my first bespoke suit in 1996. I couldn't find the linen suit I wanted, so I ordered one from Anderson & Sheppard, whose style is slim and soft in structure. While being measured, I discovered how asymmetrical I am: this shoulder lower, that arm longer. On delivery, I realized that my best off-the-peg suits can't compete in fit. In '97, I ordered a three-piece suit, an endangered species then. I was impressed when they brought in their waistcoat man for the job. Bespoke is expensive, but you're getting skilled labor, not advertising pages. You dictate the fabric, specify details like pockets, working buttons, bohemian linings, etc. Why not wear something you won't encounter in the street? I've been wearing my pin-striped denim suit from John Pearse for years, and this fall I'll debut a leprechaun green velvet from Adam Kimmel.

12. Rock a Suit That Rocks
Mark Ronson explains why he quit dressing like a Beastie Boy and started suiting up
"I think style is influenced by the music you like at any given time. At 13 to 15, I was happy listening to the Happy Mondays and going to raves, so I was wearing baggy striped pants and platform rave shoes. Then, from 18 to 26, it was pretty much Beastie Boys 101: shell-toe Adidas. But I started wearing suits every day after I did a GQ shoot inspired by French New Wave films. When Madeline [Weeks, GQ's fashion director] told me New Wave would be the inspiration, I watched alain Delon in Le Samouraï and Jean-Paul Belmondo in Breathless. After the shoot, I was just like 'Shit, I want to dress like this every day!' I think I ended up somewhere between French New Wave, the Beatles in '64, and the jazz musicians on the back of all those great Blue Note covers.
"In 2008, I was producing a record by the Kaiser Chiefs and wearing suits every day. But I was living out of a hotel and eventually ran out of clean shirts, so I had to wear a polo and a pair of black jeans. Nobody would pay attention to me that day. Finally I was like, "Oi! What the fuck? Listen to me!' And Ricky from the band was like, 'Why? You look like a teenager.' People look at you differently when you grow up and wear clothes that fit you better."

"My suit game changed completely after doing my GQ shoot. It's really a golden moment when your suit fits nice and slim, and that includes your shirt and tie and even your shoes. It all needs to slim down—that realization was eye-opening for me.—Kobe Bryant
Three Styles That Help You Stand Out
No. 3: The Winning Peak Lapel
• For the best-fitting peak-lapel suits, stick with two-button models. They create a more fluid shape. Three-button ones tend to be too boxy.
• These are elegant business-to-evening suits. Leave the sneaks and tee in the closet.
• Want to one-up the dude in the office next to yours? This is the power suit that'll do it.

13. Don't Get Taken to the Cleaners
Chances are you're servicing your suit too often
• Do it infrequently. Dry cleaning can be brutal on suiting fabric. A suit is an investment; you want to preserve its integrity.
• If it's looking creased and wrinkled, take it in to have it steam-pressed. This is especially good for cotton suits, which wrinkle more easily.
• And if you're in a bind—or just in some funny hotel in a foreign city—hang it up in the bathroom, blast a hot shower, and close the door for ten minutes. It'll look—almost—like new.

The Cheat Sheet
• A suit's gotta fit right or it isn't worth wearing.
• In order to make sure that it does fit right, find yourself a good tailor.
• You'll never go wrong wearing at two-button suit with a fairly narrow lapel. It's both classic and completely modern.
• Flat-front, relatively trim pants; very little break at the ankle.
• You should be able to easily cup your hands beneath the hem of the jacket; if you can't, it's too long.
• Show some cuff. It's the mark of a (well-dressed) gentleman.
• Dress with the season—cotton suits in summer; tweeds, flannels, and corduroys in winter.
• If you're going to wear a patterned suit, keep the patterns subtle. You want a smart suit, not a kooky one.
• If you ever can afford to get a bespoke suit, get one made. It's worth every penny