Sunday, 5 August 2012

Nine Things Every Man Should Have in His Pockets USB

A flash drive that looks like a pocketknife says, "I seem rugged, but really I just need the entire first season of Game of Thrones on me at all times." 32GB Flash Drive
$150, available at

Love the pry bar, screwdrivers, and tweezers. But it's the lighter that's most handy, whether for a bottle rocket or a campfire. Everyday Carry Kit
$44, available at

When not being used to make jet engines, titanium is the perfect material for the difficult task of keeping your cash organized. Money Clip
$30, available at

The people at Klhip completely reengineered the nail clipper using surgical-grade metal. Think of it as overkill—glorious overkill. Nail Clipper
$50, available at

Carrying a comb was de rigueur in the 1950s. Well, it's back, now that leather-goods geniuses Billykirk got all artisanal on your coif with this handstitched case. Comb Case
$45, available at

This pen is made in Nevada for NASA. I use it to scribble in this Japanese reporter's notebook, even when I'm not on the moon.
$19, available at
$30, available at

A flask of booze is an easy way to make friends. An English pewter flask by Wentworth adds top notes of envy.
$68, available at

With the evolution of LED light sources, powerful flashlights don't need to be the size of a Pringles can anymore. Surefire makes the most badass illumination gear for both civilian and tactical uses that's easy to stash in your pocket. Surefire 6PX Tactical Flashlight
$115, available at
Originally this was a combat utility knife. But you don't have to be on the brink of kicking someone's ass to use one. Surefire Knife
$445, available at


Ageless Advice from Some of Our Favorite Designers

A Piece of Advice from Tom Ford
"Keep your jacket buttoned. Always. It's just really flattering—it will take pounds off you."
A Piece of Advice from Dolce & Gabbana
"It's simple: Everyone should have a black blazer."—Domenico Dolce
"The best style advice came from my parents: Be honest. Just be yourself."—Stefano Gabbana
A Piece of Ageless Advice from Ralph Lauren
"I believe one can live many lives through personal style. Every day is an occasion to reinvent yourself."
A Piece of Ageless Advice from Michael Kors
"People shouldn't notice what you're wearing before they notice you. You want people to register you first. 'Oh, what a nice jacket' should be an afterthought if you're doing it right."
A Piece of Ageless Advice from Burberry's Christopher Bailey
"It's good to be rather unsentimental about your grooming. I use one spray of fragrance and that's it. Don't think too much about it; just get on with it."

FAQ 2017: The GQ Guide to Shoes | How to match clothes and shoes for guys

Tips on choosing shoes
How to choose the right shoes for your feet ?
You Can Judge a Man by His Shoes
They reveal whether he takes pride in the little things. If he throws on a nice suit and pairs it with cheap, clunky lace-ups, he's not what you'd call a detail man. And if he leaves his pricey wingtips scuffed and unpolished, he may not be the closer you're looking for.
There are numerous styles of shoes out there, but what's great about being a man is that you can do perfectly well by sticking with just a few. You don't need to maintain some Carrie Bradshaw–esque obsession about the latest and coolest. If you invest in a handful of sensible (and stylish) pairs and take care of them, you'll be set for years. You just need to take that first step.
1. Don't Be So Damn Square
Before we start talking about styles of shoes, let's talk shape. If you're still walking around in square-toe, rubber-soled lace-ups—the kind you buy on the cheap and that make you look like you've got platypus feet—grab them from your closet and toss them.
Seriously. your shoes should be as streamlined as the rest of your wardrobe. That means a slim contour (but not painfully skinny) and a rounded (but not sharp) toe. They'll look stylish, tasteful, and masculine. And that's all you can ask for.

2. Some Basic Advice About the...Basics
The one shoe every man should own is a black lace-up. You can dress it up or dress it down; it'll work with everything from jeans to suits. And that's the thing—don't think of it as special-occasion footwear. Avoid frilly or ornate details and you'll be able to wear the shoes as easily to the office as to the club.
3. Sure, No One Sees the Bottom of Your Feet...
Shoes take a pounding. And nowhere more than in their soles. You need to think about that and make some decisions. Do you want everlasting soles or more bounce in your step?
4. Leather Soles? We Like 'Em Extra Chunky
Some guys think leather soles mean hard and uncomfortable. Not true. If the shoes are well- made, they'll mold to your feet and serve you just fine. True, they won't be as cushiony as a pair of New Balances, but if you want real dress shoes, you want leather soles. Period. Now you've got two choices: There are those slim, contoured kinds that exude elegance and go great with a luxurious custom suit. And then there are the heftier lace-ups with chunkier soles. They're what we show a ton of in the magazine these days. They go great with skinny jeans or trim-cut suits. And if you take care of them (see number 7), they'll last you a lifetime.
5. Join the Rubber Revolution
Let's say you're insistent on extra padding for your lace-ups. The good news is that there are now plenty of stylish, wonderfully made dress shoes with full rubber soles, or at least rubber inlays. They're great for crappy weather and for comfort. But keep in mind that once full rubber soles wear down, that's it for them. Replacing the heels (or protecting them with taps) isn't a viable option as it is with leather-soled shoes.
6. Use Your Head: Preserve Your Feet
"A year ago, I got a pair of Ralph Lauren wingtips for a whopping 800 bucks. I know—that's an insane amount of money for a pair of shoes. Except, in the past, I've paid at least that much (twice that, even) for suits, some of which I don't even wear anymore, because either they wore out or they were too trendy in the first place. These wingtips, though, they'll never go out of style. Bench-made in England, tobacco brown leather, the kind of hefty soles that would allow one to kick some serious ass if one had to. I put taps on them, I keep 'em in shape with cedar shoe trees, and I lather them up with a neutral polish every few weeks. Yes, I'm slightly obsessed with them. But here's the thing—if you invest in quality, it'll pay off. These shoes will last me a decade or longer. If I bought a pair of cheap rubber-soled lace-ups, they'd be in the trash in a year and I'd have to pony up another $150. I'm not a math guy, but that seems like a lot of cash over ten years. I'll stick with my $800 wingtips and bet that over the long run, I come out ahead."—Adam Rapoport, GQ style editor
7. Save Your Sole
How to guarantee eternal life for your dress shoes
The most worn item in your wardrobe—that pair of quality leather-soled dress shoes you regularly wear to the office—requires the most attention. We asked Joe Rocco, third-generation cobbler and owner of Jim's Shoe Repair on East 59th Street in Manhattan, to talk parts and service.
Plastic is quieter, metal more durable. Either will prevent the soles (and heels—be sure you remember the heels) from grinding away. Taps typically wear out or fall off after about six months.
$3 per pair
Walking on warped soles can ruin a good pair of shoes and even cause back trouble. Start checking your soles after a year or so, and be sure new ones are sewn on, never glued.
$75 per pair
New heels every couple of years are a good bet, and the right cobbler can adjust them to fit how you walk.
$25 per pair
Heel Pads
Most shoes have shock-absorbing rubber rears to save your soles (and ankles). Have a cobbler replace them before they wear down to the leather soles themselves.
$10 per pair
8. Yes, We Hate the Way the Store Laces Them, Too
You know how you buy a nice pair of shoes and they're laced straight across? You need to call b.s. on that. They're impossible to loosen and tighten; it's done purely for display. So take out the laces and start over. The most important step is the first, inserting the lace over (not under) the bottom eyelets. Like so.

9. Polish One Off
GQ design director Fred Woodward on how to do it yourself (better)
There was a shoeshine man who used to make the rounds at 745 Fifth Avenue, the building where I worked my first year in New York. He was fond of saying that a true gentleman didn't feel properly dressed unless his shoes were freshly shined every morning. I always liked the sound of that—even if it did feel more than a little self-serving—but after he borrowed $50 from me (and countless other soft touches throughout the building), never to be seen again, I decided that shining my own shoes once a week was gentleman enough.
I love the ritual: the careful laying out of newspaper, and the round tin of Kiwi polish with the built-in wing-nut-shaped turn-key opener—a damned near perfect piece of industrial design. After enough applications, the old T-shirt that I use becomes a work of art in its own right, a poor man's Matisse. And my dad's horsehair brush (with the Good Housekeeping Seal branded into its hardwood handle) is the very same one he taught me with. First, I brush the shoe well, cleaning it of any dust or dirt. With the rag wrapped tightly around my first two fingers, I apply the polish in small, tight swirls. By the time I'm through applying wax to the second shoe, the first will be dry and ready to brush, and that's all I do.
I have a closet full of nice shoes but wear the same ones practically every day—a size 13 cordovan (color and leather) plain-toe lace-up. With this particular shoe, I use a black cream every third or fourth polishing instead of cordovan paste. It makes them the same deep aubergine as a perfectly ripe eggplant. They go with everything I own, and they're as comfortable as a bare foot in sand. I've had them resoled twice already, and I'm told a well-made, well-cared-for cordovan will outlast its owner. I aim to find out—just not too soon, I hope.

10. Now Get Your Shine Box!
What you'll need to care for your shoes

A. One tin of black wax polish and one tin of neutral. The black for your black leather dress shoes (obviously). And the neutral for your brown—because you essentially want to moisturize the leather, not color it.

B. An old T-shirt or towel will do the trick for applying wax. But if you buff your shoes post-brushing, invest in a nice soft chamois.

C. Don't skimp on the brush—you want a wood handle and horsehair bristles. And for when you're running out the door and just don't have time for a full polish, keep an instant-wax sponge in your kit for a quick touch-up.

11. Kill a Tree, Save Your Shoes
Yes, if you want your shoes to last, you need shoe trees. Ones made from cedar. They'll preserve the shape of your shoes, prevent them from developing deep creases, absorb moisture, and even make them smell better. They're a no-brainer.

 12. Reboot Your Suit
• Wearing boots with a suit achieves two things: It says you understand that uniforms look best when they're messed with, and that when it's raining or snowing, your Ferragamos should be left in the closet.
• It needs to be the right suit—slim and stylish, and preferably cut from a durable, wintry fabric.
• The boot itself ? Leather-soled military-style ones like these are ideal. They're like dress shoes, only a hell of a lot tougher.
13. Rich Italian Men Know Best
Designer Domenico Vacca on why brown is the color of cool
"Many Americans have this idea that if you put on a dress shoe, it has to be black. But Italians—and I myself, especially—very rarely wear black shoes, except for very formal occasions like weddings and funerals. I'm almost always in brown shoes, because they just work with everything. If you're in a pale gray sweater and khakis, you choose a light brown shoe; if you're in a navy blazer and dark gray pants, chocolate brown loafers. The one rule I have is that your shoes should match your accessories. Don't try to wear a deep brown watchband and a black belt and caramel-colored shoes. That won't work. But the beauty of brown shoes is that all the different shades let you communicate something about your personality—you tell the world you have a sense of play and character just by putting something on your feet."
14. Lose the Laces, Gain Some Style
"The penny loafer's got a fusty reputation, but so many designers these days are doing it in this modern, streamlined shape; instead of making your feet look stubby,a loafer by Bass or Prada will actually make them look longer. And a black penny loafer takes on the character of any outfit—when you're in a business suit, it's formal; when you're in a polo and jeans, it's casual. Consider it the perfect in-between when you don't feel like putting on a pair of sneakers or dressy lace-ups."—Jim Moore, GQ creative director
15. The Sneakers That Suit You
Pairing sneakers with a suit is a move we love and a smart way to reinvent a suit you already own. But you do need to tread carefully. Consider the following advice.
• Unless you are Kanye West, stick with no-frills sneakers in muted colors—black, gray, white, etc. If worn correctly, they'll take off more years than Botox.
• This isn't a conventional nine- to-five look. So go with a slim suit (cropped relatively short) or a loose-and-easy one. Just not your basic business suit.
• Finally, low-tops, please. High-tops are for ballers and serious fashion junkies.

16. The Style Guy
Glenn O'Brien is feeling blue. And green, and tan, and tartan
The question I'm asked most is "What color socks should I wear?" How boring. Wear a color you feel like wearing! A more interesting question is "What color shoes should I wear?" Dullsville is a place where they only wear black and brown shoes. White shoes light up the summer. Spectators and saddle shoes signal an adventurous spirit. Bucks are good not only in white but in tan, gray, and blue, too. Colorful shoes are not just for women. I've been wearing Belgian Shoes in colors for years. I have brown and black, natch, but also blue calf and green suede. They even come in wool tartans: My Black Watch pair matches my wallet. Scared? Nobody ever gave Charles Oakley lip for his purple alligator loafers. Designers like Paul Smith are getting hip and doing color for men. I see desert boots lately in all sorts of colors. Take a walk on the wild side.
17. Sock It to 'Em
If you're sitting at your desk reading this, stop for a second and cross your right leg over your left. When your pant leg rides up, exposing some dress sock, ask yourself this: Do you like what you see? You should. Your socks should have as much personality as—if not more than—the rest of your outfit. You've got two ways to go.
Match 'Em Up—The Conservative Way...
When choosing dress socks, the basic rule is to consider the suit instead of the shoe—in other words, if you're wearing a navy suit with black or brown shoes, reach for navy socks.
...or Flash Some Color
You can tell a lot about a guy by glancing at his ankles. Is he a stick-to- the-rules type—the kind who dutifully matches his socks to his pants every morning? Or is he the type who understands that dressing well often means dressing with a rebel streak? We think you can pair a boldly patterned or colored dress sock with pretty much anything—a sharp suit, elegant pants, or, say, a pair of dark jeans. Just look for stripes or colors that complement your look up top (maybe matching your shirt or tie) while contrasting with your pants or shoes. And don't worry if you break a rule or two—that's the point.
Socks this bold work one of two ways: Either they pop against a completely neutral outfit (white shirt, dark suit and tie), or they complement what's going on upstairs. Could be a red tie, could be a yellow oxford.

18. The White Powder That Will Get You Hooked
"I used to think that keeping a bottle of talc around was like reaching for hair tonic or witch hazel—you know, old-guy stuff. But then this magazine—and pretty much every fashion designer and J.Crew mannequin—started telling us that we've got to go sockless (see right) in the summer months. Looks cool, feels cool. Except, that is, when your feet are a swampy, sweaty mess. So now, suddenly, I'm one of those guys who use talcum powder obsessively. I give my wingtips or boat shoes a dusting with it every morning before I head to the office. My feet slide right in, and they actually do feel cool. Of course, one dusting doesn't completely keep me from sweating on brutally hot and humid days; the stuff's not magic powder. That's why I keep a stopgap bottle in my desk drawer."—Adam Rapoport, GQ style editor
19. Show Some Ankle
Going sockless is a quick way to invigorate everything from a trim suit to short-cropped khakis. But there's a sensible way to pull it off. Do you really want to walk around all day not wearing socks with nice leather shoes? Thought so. Besides talcum powder, consider loafer socks—they're so low-cut they're essentially invisible. We like the ones from Buy a bunch and wear them all summer long.

The Cheat Sheet
• Your dress shoes should be as contoured as your suits. Say no to square toes.
• Black lace-ups are the most dependable and versatile shoes you can own.
• Real dress shoes have leather soles...
• ...but there are now plenty of quality rubber-soled options available.
• Take care of your shoes: taps on the heels and toes, cedar shoe trees when you're not wearing them.
• Yes, you can—and should—wear sneakers with a suit. But keep them simple and understated.

FAQ 2017: The GQ Guide to Suits | how to choose the right suit for your body

Different types of suits design:
Learn to suit up properly and everything else follows.
Whether you're an office guy who needs to look sharp for the competition, or a creative type who dresses up because he likes to, the suit is the basic building block of looking good. It's a timeless, ever adaptable, sometimes maligned, but never improved uniform. Consider the roots of that word: uni, as in a universally good idea to save your ass from the danger of too much choice; form, as in the opposite of formless, sloppy, or unfocused. We'll get to the specifics of lapel widths and armholes and vents and how to do it right, but let's first agree that this is where dressing like a man begins. Get the basics down and then you can lose yourself in perfecting the details—what the ever dapper Tom Wolfe once approvingly called the sartorial "mania for marginal differences." And that's when things get interesting.
Types of suits for men's body types
1. What the Twenty-first- Century Suited Man Looks Like
Check out Christoph Waltz here and you'll see more than just a sharp-dressed man—you'll see a completely contemporary man. What's the secret? The trimness of the suit? Sure. The elegance of the details? Totally. But look a little closer and you'll notice what's not here: no aggressive plaids, no I'm-the-man pinstripes, no four-button jacket. Instead, the message is smart, confident, thoroughly put together. He makes a statement by not making one—or at least looking as if he's not trying so hard to make one. Like the best in modern design, his suit is simple and streamlined, perfectly crafted. That's the look you want.
2. More Than Ever, It's About Fit
That's our mantra here at GQ. It's what we preach every issue. Doesn't matter what kind of suit you're investing in, whether it's $200 or $2,000, flannel or seersucker, two-button or three. We've seen plenty of guys who've bought the right suit and let it hang off them like an NBA rookie on draft night. And we've seen men in cheap but well-tailored suits who look like a million bucks. The thing's got to fit right, or else there's no point in wearing it. Question is, what's the right fit, and how do you get it?
A. Take It from the Top
A good suit should hug your shoulders, not slouch off them. Most guys think they're a size larger than they are—say, a 42 regular instead of a 40. When buying a suit, go ahead and try sizing down. When you pull on the jacket, there should be a firmness to it. You should snap to attention and stand taller. If it doesn't fit right in the shoulders, don't buy it.
3. Wanna Step It Up? Nail the Finer Points
You know how a suit should fit. But what about all the details that define the style of a suit? You've got countless options. Here are the ones that matter most, the ones that make for an infallible suit.
F. Start with the Lapels
Nothing does more to dictate a suit's character than the lapel. We like a slim one, about two inches at its widest point. It's modern without being rock-star skinny.
G. Go for Two
We swear by a two-button suit jacket. Sure, a three-button that's cut well can do the job, but a two-button is much more consistently reliable, no matter your shape or size. We typically opt for ones with low-button stances, because they create a long, slimming torso. They're foolproof.
H. Ticket, Please
Ticket pocket? Sure. If you're into more of a British-dandy vibe, go for it.
I. Cause a Flap
We like a traditional flap pocket. There's something a bit too '90s about those slit pockets.
J. Feel Free to Vent
Finally, don't ignore the back of the jacket. It plays an integral role in a suit's character. Generally, we prefer a center vent; it's unobtrusive and keeps the lines of the suit clean and simple. Side vents, like these here, make more of a statement. They're a bit more...rakish.
4. To Cuff or Not to Cuff
Designer Michael Bastian on how the right call can make or break a suit
"I like cuffs on pants of just about any fabric. Of course, when you're dealing with heavier corduroys and tweeds, the cuffs serve a purpose: They give the pants some weight, so they fall better. I say, if you're gonna go for a cuff, go for it; make it at least an inch and a quarter deep. As for the break, 90 percent of guys keep it classic, where the front of your pants hits the top bit of your shoes and the back of them touches the tops of your heels. That always works—but if you know what you're doing, then you can play around a bit and show a little ankle. Bring a pair of shoes to the tailor's to get the length just right and always follow that old rule 'Measure twice, cut once.' It's easy to go a little shorter, but it's impossible to go a little longer."

My First Suit: The Keeps-on-Ticking Hand-Me-Down
Kirk Miller
Miller's Oath, N.Y.C.
"I got this really simple two-button summer khaki by Paul Stuart that was a hand-me-down from Goodwill. It was beat-up, with scuffed elbows, and basically it was really badass. I must've worn the jacket for a year straight. It was a 37 short, which almost no one but Paul Stuart makes. It's funny, actually, because I almost gave it away the other day—but then I thought, 'No, no! I can't give that away.' "

5. How to Suit Your Shape
Shelly here is about five feet four and, well, not exactly runway skinny. But even without hitting the gym, he looks like a new man by choosing the right suit. Anyone who's short or a bit heavyset should take notes.
An overly roomy suit—even a pricey one like this—makes you look sloppy.
Avoid long suit jackets. They actually make your legs look shorter.
Excess fabric, especially below the knee, adds pounds.
Be honest with yourself. Admit you're short and buy short-length suits.
Wear a pocket square. It brings the focus to your chest, not your belly.
A lower button stance creates long lines, essentially stretching you out.
Show some cuff to lengthen the look of your arms.
• A pant leg with very little break will help you look taller.
Big man, solid shoe. Choose shoes that have a substantial sole. You need something to anchor your weight.

Be honest with yourself. Admit you're short and buy short-length suits.
Wear a pocket square. It brings the focus to your chest, not your belly.
A lower button stance creates long lines, essentially stretching you out.
Show some cuff to lengthen the look of your arms.
• A pant leg with very little break will help you look taller.
Big man, solid shoe. Choose shoes that have a substantial sole. You need something to anchor your weight.

Three Styles That Help You Stand Out
No. 1: The New Slim, Trim Double-Breasted
• If you want a double-breasted suit to look modern—and not like something from a gangster flick—keep it short and trim. And avoid Dick Tracy-grade shoulder pads, too.
Keep the jacket buttoned (including the interior button). It doesn't hang well when undone.
• And unlike with single-breasted suits, unless you want to look like a singer in the '80s R&B band, go for a higher-cut six-button suit instead of a low-slung four-button model.
My First Suit: The Green Monster
Nick Cave
"The first suit I ever bought was from a secondhand place in New York when I was on tour there in the early '80s. It was three pieces, lime green with an orange check. I have no idea what it was made of, only that it melted when you would nod off and the cigarette would fall on your trousers. And I was actually imprisoned in it. I was busted buying drugs on the Lower East Side, and I was thrown in a holding pen in this ridiculous lime green suit. And I was thinking, Jesus, I wish it wasn't lime green. And of course, the one other white guy in the cell runs up and goes, 'Fuck, it's Nick Cave!' And what's more, we had a gig that night. We were staying at the Iroquois hotel, and when the sergeant said, 'Nick Cave, c'mon, make your phone call,' I asked him to call the Iroquois. And he says, 'Can you spell that?' And I'm like 'I... R...' 'Nope! Next!' So I was there for three days, and I missed the shows, sitting there in my lime green suit."

6. Get Thee to a Good Tailor: It's the Wisest Money You'll Ever Spend
The right tailor can make a $100 suit look like $1,000, and he can make that $1,000 suit worth every penny. There's not a GQ shoot where we don't enlist our tailor, Joseph, to nip, tuck, and alter a suit. For your purposes, the trick is knowing what needs to be done and then knowing how to manage your tailor. Don't let him tell you how much of a break you want in your trousers: You tell him. You're the boss. Here's what a good tailoring job will run you.
Most suits are cut too full, including the sleeves. Have them narrowed. It makes a difference.
Tailors hesitate to shorten sleeves. Be adamant—your sleeves should end at the break of your wrists.
Jackets need to be brought in at the waist, to create that V effect.
Have your pants slimmed an inch from top to bottom. Then shorten them. The narrower the pant leg, the less break you need.
The Essential Can't-Go-Wrong Gray Two-Button Suit
"This is basically the man's version of the little black dress. I call it the no-brainer suit. It works during the day; it works at night. It works at every occasion you'd wear a suit to. But you do need to make sure you're getting the right shade of gray—not one that's light and summery, and definitely not a somber charcoal. You want a gray that's right down the middle. When in doubt, wear it with a white shirt and dark solid tie and—like Cary Grant here—you're always going to be the best-dressed guy in the room"—Jim Moore, GQ creative director
7. Go Short—Shorter Than You Think
Your Suit Is (Probably) Too Long
You might have noticed, on the runways and in our pages, that guys are wearing much shorter suit jackets these days. And it's a look we like. Partly because it goes with the slimmer, trimmer suit style, and also because most guys wear their suits too long.
Here's the deal: You should be able to easily cup your hands beneath your suit jackets. Going full-on Thom Browne short isn't for everyone, but there's no denying the impact of this wave. The average suit at J.Crew or Club Monaco is cut considerably shorter than it was five years ago. The days of the average guy wearing a three-to-five-button suit are thankfully behind us.

8. That Year-Round Suit Ain't Cutting It Anymore
We like to think that you should dress like you eat—seasonally. Not only is it a way to bring some variety to your wardrobe; it's also sensible. When the temperature drops, reach for heavier, warmer fabrics. When it's hot and humid, keep your suiting lightweight and pretty much cotton exclusively.
9. Freezing Your Ass Off? Conquer Winter in Style
The man in the gray flannel suit. You can't get more timeless—and flawless—than that.
You don't want too fine a wale (so people mistake it for velvet) nor too wide (which can look a little too Greenwich, Connecticut, Christmas party).
Perfect for those transitional months when you can skip the overcoat and just throw on a scarf with your trim-cut tweed sports jacket.
 10. ...And When It's Muggy and Miserable, Keep Your Cool
When the temperature surges past seventy or so, it's time to shelve your wool suits and go lightweight. Yes, khaki is probably the best-known of the summer suits, but don't limit yourself: Designers are doing a range of cotton options, including navy, black, and even plaid. Whether you have the cojones to pull off a white one is your call. Other go-to cotton options include seersucker (go with gray or pale blue stripes) and whipcord (which has ridges like corduroy—without the fuzziness). Finally, there's linen, the lightest material of them all. Just make sure yours is cut sharp and slim, unlike the stuff you see flopping in the sea breeze in the Florida Keys.
Three Styles That Help You Stand Out
No. 2: The Young Man's Three-Piece
• A three-piece suit announces itself loudly and clearly—which means you sould opt for a relatively subdued shirt-and-tie combo to provide balance.
Fitwise, think about the vest. It should hit at the belt buckle (not dip past it), and it should wrap snugly around your torso.
Mix it up. Ditch the jacket and stride around the office in just the vest (very manly, indeed). Or you can always leave the vest at home and wear the suit as a conventional two-piece.
My First Suit: The Italian Job
Paul Smith
"The first suit I ever got had a name—it was called the San Remo. It was three, possibly four buttons, with very high lapels. It was in the style of all those movies like La Docle Vita and ones by Antonioni. I suppose I was 15 or 16, and it was, what, 1856? Let's just say it was in the '60s. And to be clear: I didn't buy it; it was paid for by my parents, probably because we had to go to a family wedding. I remember it was sort of a mucky green—lovat, as we'd say in England. I wore it with a cutaway-collar shirt with strong stripes—what we used to call London stripes—and a dark narrow tie. And my hair looked ridiculous. The trend was to put a lot of Brylcreem in and do it up in a quiff—you know, like Mastroianni in La Dolce Vita. I thought it was pretty cool."
11. It Might Get Loud...So Mute It
We dig a patterned suit, but when we show one in the magazine, or wear one ourselves, we like to keep it subtle. Our aim is to inject a bit of personality without making the guy look like a buffoon. Two examples:
Don't Look Like Pee-Wee Herman
Right now, we really like a shadow plaid suit, like the one here. It's more of a suggestion of plaid than a full-on one, like a classic Prince of Wales. It's easy to wear and offers just enough oomph.
Go for a Thinner Pin
For pinstripes, we tend to avoid bold Wall Street stripes and go with either a fine-line pinstripe (tightly spaced superthin stripes) or a solf chalk stripe on a heavyweight flannel, like the one on the right. Both will elicit compliments, not guffaws.
The Style Guy
When it comes to suits, Glenn O'Brien insists on one of a kind
I got my first bespoke suit in 1996. I couldn't find the linen suit I wanted, so I ordered one from Anderson & Sheppard, whose style is slim and soft in structure. While being measured, I discovered how asymmetrical I am: this shoulder lower, that arm longer. On delivery, I realized that my best off-the-peg suits can't compete in fit. In '97, I ordered a three-piece suit, an endangered species then. I was impressed when they brought in their waistcoat man for the job. Bespoke is expensive, but you're getting skilled labor, not advertising pages. You dictate the fabric, specify details like pockets, working buttons, bohemian linings, etc. Why not wear something you won't encounter in the street? I've been wearing my pin-striped denim suit from John Pearse for years, and this fall I'll debut a leprechaun green velvet from Adam Kimmel.
12. Rock a Suit That Rocks
Mark Ronson explains why he quit dressing like a Beastie Boy and started suiting up
"I think style is influenced by the music you like at any given time. At 13 to 15, I was happy listening to the Happy Mondays and going to raves, so I was wearing baggy striped pants and platform rave shoes. Then, from 18 to 26, it was pretty much Beastie Boys 101: shell-toe Adidas. But I started wearing suits every day after I did a GQ shoot inspired by French New Wave films. When Madeline [Weeks, GQ's fashion director] told me New Wave would be the inspiration, I watched alain Delon in Le Samouraï and Jean-Paul Belmondo in Breathless. After the shoot, I was just like 'Shit, I want to dress like this every day!' I think I ended up somewhere between French New Wave, the Beatles in '64, and the jazz musicians on the back of all those great Blue Note covers.
"In 2008, I was producing a record by the Kaiser Chiefs and wearing suits every day. But I was living out of a hotel and eventually ran out of clean shirts, so I had to wear a polo and a pair of black jeans. Nobody would pay attention to me that day. Finally I was like, "Oi! What the fuck? Listen to me!' And Ricky from the band was like, 'Why? You look like a teenager.' People look at you differently when you grow up and wear clothes that fit you better."

"My suit game changed completely after doing my GQ shoot. It's really a golden moment when your suit fits nice and slim, and that includes your shirt and tie and even your shoes. It all needs to slim down—that realization was eye-opening for me.—Kobe Bryant
Three Styles That Help You Stand Out
No. 3: The Winning Peak Lapel
• For the best-fitting peak-lapel suits, stick with two-button models. They create a more fluid shape. Three-button ones tend to be too boxy.
These are elegant business-to-evening suits. Leave the sneaks and tee in the closet.
Want to one-up the dude in the office next to yours? This is the power suit that'll do it.

13. Don't Get Taken to the Cleaners
Chances are you're servicing your suit too often
Do it infrequently. Dry cleaning can be brutal on suiting fabric. A suit is an investment; you want to preserve its integrity.
• If it's looking creased and wrinkled, take it in to have it steam-pressed. This is especially good for cotton suits, which wrinkle more easily.
• And if you're in a bind—or just in some funny hotel in a foreign city—hang it up in the bathroom, blast a hot shower, and close the door for ten minutes. It'll look—almost—like new.

The Cheat Sheet
• A suit's gotta fit right or it isn't worth wearing.
• In order to make sure that it does fit right, find yourself a good tailor.
• You'll never go wrong wearing at two-button suit with a fairly narrow lapel. It's both classic and completely modern.
• Flat-front, relatively trim pants; very little break at the ankle.
• You should be able to easily cup your hands beneath the hem of the jacket; if you can't, it's too long.
• Show some cuff. It's the mark of a (well-dressed) gentleman.
• Dress with the season—cotton suits in summer; tweeds, flannels, and corduroys in winter.
• If you're going to wear a patterned suit, keep the patterns subtle. You want a smart suit, not a kooky one.
• If you ever can afford to get a bespoke suit, get one made. It's worth every penny