Tuesday 14 February 2012

The Sandwich of the Year



You shoved it into your face as a little kid and used it to soak up cheap beer in college, but now it's time to elevate your grilled cheese sandwich to grown-man territory. "Think of it as a blank canvas," says Thomas Keller, who serves a buttery Gruyère-and-brioche version at Bouchon Bakery in New York City. In other words, experiment. Once you upgrade from Kraft Singles and Wonder Bread, you'll realize there's nothing Keller can do to a grilled cheese that you can't. Just remember a few tricks: Use a low, even source of heat—too hot and the bread will burn before your Gruyère gets a chance to melt—and let the finished product rest for a minute, like you would a fresh-off-the-grill porterhouse. It's not 3 a.m. after a frat party, and patience, like a quality Gouda, is a sign of maturity.

• The French Evolution
Chef Thomas Keller, The French Laundry, Yountville, California, and Per Se, N.Y.C.
1 Tbsp. butter
2 slices brioche
2 oz. Gruyère, thinly sliced

• Southern Comfort
Chef Harrison Keevil, Brookville Restaurant, Charlottesville, Virginia
1 Tbsp. butter
2 slices rustic bread
3 thick slices high-quality pre-cooked bacon
3 thin slices Granny Smith apple
2 Tbsp. Duke's mayonnaise (optional)
2 oz. Swiss cheese or Gouda, thinly sliced

• The Crispy Caprese
Chef Terrance Brennan, Artisanal, N.Y.C.
1 Tbsp. butter
2 slices pagnotta (Italian country bread)
1 ripe tomato, sliced
Several sprigs fresh basil
3 oz. fresh burrata or mozzarella

Directions
1. "Take your cheese out of the refrigerator an hour ahead of time," says Keller. "It will melt more evenly that way. And use butter at room temperature."

2. Preheat the oven to 350.

3. Preheat an iron skillet over medium heat.

4. Assemble the sandwich on a plate. Butter the outside of the bread and place the non-cheese ingredients—bacon, basil, whatever—between 2 slices of cheese to keep the bread from sliding off.

5. Add 1/3 tablespoon of the butter to the skillet and cook to brown.

6. Lay the sandwich in the pan. "Pay attention," says Keller. "You're looking for a really crusty dark brown on this first side." This usually takes 1 1/2 minutes.

7. Flip, then cook for an additional 30 to 45 seconds.

8. Spread the remaining butter on the just-browned side, transfer the sandwich to a baking sheet, and place in the oven for a few minutes—how long you keep it in depends on how melty you like your cheese.

9. Pull out your masterpiece and let it sit for a minute before devouring.

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