Get growing, but resist the man bun.
As much as we love a good buzz-cut or short fade, long hair styles are everywhere right now. But no one wants to revisit the man-bun mania we recently left behind. To keep yourself looking like Michael Lockley or Miles McMillan on the runway, and not Leonardo DiCaprio on perma-vacation, we asked a few of the top men’s hairstylists for their advice on how to pull off some length in a fresh, modern way. Here’s what they had to say:
Have a Specific Cut—or Era—in Mind
Long hair can mean a lot of different things, depending on your natural texture and your haircut. Step one is to have a goal (or person) in mind. “Whether you go for rock ‘n’ roll hair to the shoulders, a badass afro, or a sumo-style tied-off knot, your long hair will become a part of who you are,” says Benjamin Mohapi, owner of the Benjamin Salon. Point being: Don’t just aimlessly grow it long.
And you don’t necessarily need to go below your shoulders, either. Considering most men rock an inch or two of hair at maximum, “long” can simply mean letting it reach your chin. Jon Reyman, owner of Spoke & Weal, is all about these mid-length cuts right now. “Hair between the bottom of the ears and just below the chin is very cool. These ‘90s cuts work when you keep them kind of greasy and unwashed, or when you go clean and a bit puffy. And they look great with the looser clothing we are seeing in menswear right now.”
Consider Your Face Shape
Neil Weisberg, owner of Meche Salon, points out that your haircut will play up—or down—your facial features so it helps to be strategic about your cut. He cites today’s trending ‘70s cuts as an example. “Shags can soften bold features like large ears or a big nose”, whereas a long haircut without texture or layers does nothing but accentuate those qualities.
Weisberg explains that, generally speaking, “rounder faces need height towards the top and a leaner feel through the sides to elongate the face. Slimmer faces—especially guys that are really narrow through the temples—can afford to go a bit longer. The hair will give their face some width. Chiseled faces do well with most anything—you lucky bastards.”
Become a Grooming Minimalist
“Don’t make long hair a project,” advises Mohapi. “Blow drying is fine, if you feel like you need it, but do as much with your hands as possible. And if you overdo it with greasy products, you will end up looking like you belong backstage at a Deep Purple concert or in a Soul Glow commercial.”
Reyman agreed on a minimalist approach to maintaining long hair. “Go get a haircut when it feels right. After 8-12 weeks, density and puffiness will start to be your issue more than length. A hairdresser can manage the density so it stays healthy and clean.” Otherwise, guys, leave it the F alone.
Find a Better Alternative to the Man Bun
If you grow your hair out, chances are you’re going to occasionally want to pull it back. Find a way to do this without looking like a European soccer player. In other words, resist the man bun, cheerleader ponytail, and headband. If your hair is more mid-length, Reyman recommends simply tucking it behind your ears. If that doesn’t work, using a bandana to keep it out of your eyes could be an option. He concedes that a bun is acceptable, if you must, but “tie it with a rubber band or basic hair-tie at the nape of your neck.” In other words, no topknots.
Have thick or coarse hair? “Braids are the way forward,” according to Mohapi. “From chunky cornrows to braided pigtails your options are endless. Braids look especially good when you smarten things up a bit and put on a suit”.
Have a Specific Cut—or Era—in Mind
Long hair can mean a lot of different things, depending on your natural texture and your haircut. Step one is to have a goal (or person) in mind. “Whether you go for rock ‘n’ roll hair to the shoulders, a badass afro, or a sumo-style tied-off knot, your long hair will become a part of who you are,” says Benjamin Mohapi, owner of the Benjamin Salon. Point being: Don’t just aimlessly grow it long.
And you don’t necessarily need to go below your shoulders, either. Considering most men rock an inch or two of hair at maximum, “long” can simply mean letting it reach your chin. Jon Reyman, owner of Spoke & Weal, is all about these mid-length cuts right now. “Hair between the bottom of the ears and just below the chin is very cool. These ‘90s cuts work when you keep them kind of greasy and unwashed, or when you go clean and a bit puffy. And they look great with the looser clothing we are seeing in menswear right now.”
Consider Your Face Shape
Neil Weisberg, owner of Meche Salon, points out that your haircut will play up—or down—your facial features so it helps to be strategic about your cut. He cites today’s trending ‘70s cuts as an example. “Shags can soften bold features like large ears or a big nose”, whereas a long haircut without texture or layers does nothing but accentuate those qualities.
Weisberg explains that, generally speaking, “rounder faces need height towards the top and a leaner feel through the sides to elongate the face. Slimmer faces—especially guys that are really narrow through the temples—can afford to go a bit longer. The hair will give their face some width. Chiseled faces do well with most anything—you lucky bastards.”
Become a Grooming Minimalist
“Don’t make long hair a project,” advises Mohapi. “Blow drying is fine, if you feel like you need it, but do as much with your hands as possible. And if you overdo it with greasy products, you will end up looking like you belong backstage at a Deep Purple concert or in a Soul Glow commercial.”
Find a Better Alternative to the Man Bun
If you grow your hair out, chances are you’re going to occasionally want to pull it back. Find a way to do this without looking like a European soccer player. In other words, resist the man bun, cheerleader ponytail, and headband. If your hair is more mid-length, Reyman recommends simply tucking it behind your ears. If that doesn’t work, using a bandana to keep it out of your eyes could be an option. He concedes that a bun is acceptable, if you must, but “tie it with a rubber band or basic hair-tie at the nape of your neck.” In other words, no topknots.
Have thick or coarse hair? “Braids are the way forward,” according to Mohapi. “From chunky cornrows to braided pigtails your options are endless. Braids look especially good when you smarten things up a bit and put on a suit”.
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