Tips on choosing shoes
How to choose the right shoes for your feet ?
You Can Judge a Man by His Shoes
They reveal whether he takes pride in the little things. If he throws on
a nice suit and pairs it with cheap, clunky lace-ups, he's not what
you'd call a detail man. And if he leaves his pricey wingtips scuffed
and unpolished, he
may not be the closer you're looking for.
There are numerous styles of shoes out there, but what's great about
being a man is that you can do perfectly well by sticking with just a
few. You don't need to maintain some Carrie Bradshaw–esque obsession
about the latest and coolest.
If you invest in a handful of sensible (and stylish) pairs and take care
of them, you'll be set for years. You just need to take that first
step.
1. Don't Be So Damn Square
Before we start talking about styles of shoes, let's talk shape. If
you're still walking around in square-toe, rubber-soled lace-ups—the
kind you buy on the cheap and that make you look like you've got
platypus feet—grab them from your
closet and toss them.
Seriously. your shoes should be as streamlined as the rest of your
wardrobe. That means a slim contour (but not painfully skinny) and a
rounded (but not sharp) toe. They'll look stylish, tasteful, and
masculine. And that's all you can ask for.
2. Some Basic Advice About the...Basics
The one shoe every man should own is a black lace-up. You can dress it
up or dress it down; it'll work with everything from jeans to suits. And
that's the thing—don't think of it as special-occasion footwear. Avoid
frilly or ornate details and you'll be able to wear the shoes as easily
to the office as to the club.
3. Sure, No One Sees the Bottom of Your Feet...
Shoes take a pounding. And nowhere more than in their soles. You need to
think about that and make some decisions. Do you want everlasting soles
or more bounce in your step?
4. Leather Soles? We Like 'Em Extra Chunky
Some guys think leather soles mean hard and uncomfortable. Not true. If
the shoes are well- made, they'll mold to your feet and serve you just
fine. True, they won't be as cushiony as a pair of New Balances, but if
you want real dress shoes, you want leather soles. Period. Now you've
got two choices: There are those slim, contoured kinds that exude
elegance and go great with a luxurious custom suit. And then there are
the heftier lace-ups with chunkier soles. They're what we show a ton of
in the magazine these days. They go great with skinny jeans or trim-cut
suits. And if you take care of them (see number 7), they'll last you a
lifetime.
5. Join the Rubber Revolution
Let's say you're insistent on extra padding for your lace-ups. The good
news is that there are now plenty of stylish, wonderfully made dress
shoes with full rubber soles, or at least rubber inlays. They're great
for crappy weather and for comfort. But keep in mind that once full
rubber soles wear down, that's it for them. Replacing the heels (or
protecting them with taps) isn't a viable option as it is with
leather-soled shoes.
6. Use Your Head: Preserve Your Feet
"A year ago, I got a pair of Ralph Lauren wingtips for a whopping 800
bucks. I know—that's an insane amount of money for a pair of shoes.
Except, in the past, I've paid at least that much (twice that, even) for
suits, some of which I don't even wear anymore, because either they
wore out or they were too trendy in the first place. These wingtips,
though, they'll never go out of style. Bench-made in England, tobacco
brown leather, the kind of hefty soles that would allow one to kick some
serious ass if one had to. I put taps on them, I keep 'em in shape with
cedar shoe trees, and I lather them up with a neutral polish every few
weeks. Yes, I'm slightly obsessed with them. But here's the thing—if you
invest in quality, it'll pay off. These shoes will last me a decade or
longer. If I bought a pair of cheap rubber-soled lace-ups, they'd be in
the trash in a year and I'd have to pony up another $150. I'm not a math
guy, but that seems like a lot of cash over ten years. I'll stick with
my $800 wingtips and bet that over the long run, I come out ahead."—Adam Rapoport, GQ style editor
7. Save Your Sole
How to guarantee eternal life for your dress shoes
The most worn item in your wardrobe—that pair of quality leather-soled
dress shoes you regularly wear to the office—requires the most
attention. We asked Joe Rocco, third-generation cobbler and owner of
Jim's Shoe Repair on East 59th Street in Manhattan, to talk parts and
service.
Taps
Plastic is quieter, metal more durable. Either will prevent the soles
(and heels—be sure you remember the heels) from grinding away. Taps
typically wear out or fall off after about six months.
$3 per pair
Soles
Walking on warped soles can ruin a good pair of shoes and even cause
back trouble. Start checking your soles after a year or so, and be sure
new ones are sewn on, never glued.
$75 per pair
Heels
New heels every couple of years are a good bet, and the right cobbler can adjust them to fit how you walk.
$25 per pair
Heel Pads
Most shoes have shock-absorbing rubber rears to save your soles (and
ankles). Have a cobbler replace them before they wear down to
the leather soles themselves.
$10 per pair
8. Yes, We Hate the Way the Store Laces Them, Too
You know how you buy a nice pair of shoes and they're laced straight
across? You need to call b.s. on that. They're impossible to loosen and
tighten; it's done purely for display. So take out the laces and start
over. The most important step is the first, inserting the lace over (not
under) the bottom eyelets. Like so.
9. Polish One Off
GQ design director Fred Woodward on how to do it yourself (better)
There was a shoeshine man who used to make the rounds at 745 Fifth
Avenue, the building where I worked my first year in New York. He was
fond of saying that a true gentleman didn't feel properly dressed unless
his shoes were freshly shined every morning. I always liked the sound
of that—even if it did feel more than a little self-serving—but after he
borrowed $50 from me (and countless other soft touches throughout the
building), never to be seen again, I decided that shining my own shoes
once a week was gentleman enough.
I love the ritual: the careful laying out of newspaper, and the round
tin of Kiwi polish with the built-in wing-nut-shaped turn-key opener—a
damned near perfect piece of industrial design. After enough
applications, the old T-shirt that I use becomes a work of art in its
own right, a poor man's Matisse. And
my dad's horsehair brush (with the Good Housekeeping Seal branded into
its hardwood handle) is the very same one he taught me with.
First, I brush the shoe well, cleaning it of any dust or dirt. With the
rag wrapped tightly around my first two fingers, I apply the polish in
small, tight swirls. By the time I'm through applying wax to the second
shoe, the first will be dry and ready to brush, and that's all I do.
I have a closet full of nice shoes but wear the same ones practically
every day—a size 13 cordovan (color and leather) plain-toe lace-up. With
this particular shoe, I use a black cream every third or fourth
polishing instead of cordovan paste. It makes them the same deep
aubergine as a perfectly ripe eggplant. They go with everything I own,
and they're as comfortable as a bare foot in sand. I've had them resoled
twice already, and
I'm told a well-made, well-cared-for cordovan will outlast its owner. I
aim to find out—just not too soon, I hope.
10. Now Get Your Shine Box!
What you'll need to care for your shoes
A. One tin of black wax polish and one tin of neutral. The black for your black leather dress shoes (obviously). And the neutral for your brown—because you essentially want to moisturize the leather, not color it.
B. An old T-shirt or towel will do the trick for applying wax. But if you buff your shoes post-brushing, invest in a nice soft chamois.
C. Don't skimp on the brush—you want a wood handle and horsehair bristles. And for when you're running out the door and just don't have time for a full polish, keep an instant-wax sponge in your kit for a quick touch-up.
11. Kill a Tree, Save Your Shoes
Yes, if you want your shoes to last, you need shoe trees. Ones made from
cedar. They'll preserve the shape of your shoes, prevent them from
developing deep creases, absorb moisture, and even make them smell
better. They're a no-brainer.
12. Reboot Your Suit
• Wearing boots with a suit achieves two things: It says you understand
that uniforms look best when they're messed with, and that when it's
raining or snowing, your Ferragamos should be left in the closet.
• It needs to be the right suit—slim and stylish, and preferably cut from a durable, wintry fabric.
• The boot itself ? Leather-soled military-style ones like these are
ideal. They're like dress shoes, only a hell of a lot tougher.
13. Rich Italian Men Know Best
Designer Domenico Vacca on why brown is the color of cool
"Many Americans have this idea that if you put on a dress shoe, it has
to be black. But Italians—and I myself, especially—very rarely wear
black shoes, except for very formal occasions like weddings and
funerals. I'm almost always in brown shoes, because they just work with
everything. If you're in a pale gray sweater and khakis, you choose a
light brown shoe; if you're in a navy blazer and dark gray pants,
chocolate brown loafers. The one rule I have is that your shoes should
match your accessories. Don't try to wear a deep brown watchband and a
black belt and caramel-colored shoes. That won't work. But the beauty of
brown shoes is that all the different shades let you communicate
something about your personality—you tell the world you have a sense of
play and character just by putting something on your feet."
14. Lose the Laces, Gain Some Style
"The penny loafer's got a fusty reputation, but so many designers these
days are doing it in this modern, streamlined shape; instead of making
your feet look stubby,a loafer by Bass or Prada will actually make them
look longer. And a black penny loafer takes on the character of any
outfit—when you're in a business suit, it's formal; when you're in a
polo and jeans, it's casual. Consider it the perfect in-between when you
don't feel like putting
on a pair of sneakers or dressy lace-ups."—Jim Moore, GQ creative director
15. The Sneakers That Suit You
Pairing sneakers with a suit is a move we love and a smart way to
reinvent a suit you already own. But you do need to tread carefully.
Consider the following advice.
• Unless you are Kanye West, stick with no-frills sneakers in muted
colors—black, gray, white, etc. If worn correctly, they'll take off more
years than Botox.
• This isn't a conventional nine- to-five look. So go with a slim suit
(cropped relatively short) or a loose-and-easy one. Just not your basic
business suit.
• Finally, low-tops, please. High-tops are for ballers and serious fashion junkies.
16. The Style Guy
Glenn O'Brien is feeling blue. And green, and tan, and tartan
The question I'm asked most is "What color socks should I wear?" How
boring. Wear a color you feel like wearing! A more interesting question
is "What color shoes should I wear?" Dullsville is a place where they
only wear black and brown shoes. White shoes light up the summer.
Spectators and saddle shoes signal an adventurous spirit. Bucks are good
not only in white but in tan, gray, and blue, too. Colorful shoes are
not just for women. I've been wearing Belgian Shoes in colors for years.
I have brown and black, natch, but also blue calf and green suede. They
even come in wool tartans: My Black Watch pair matches my wallet.
Scared? Nobody ever gave Charles Oakley lip for his purple alligator
loafers. Designers like Paul Smith are getting hip and doing color for
men. I see desert boots lately in all sorts of colors. Take a walk on
the wild side.
17. Sock It to 'Em
If you're sitting at your desk reading this, stop for a second and cross
your right leg over your left. When your pant leg rides up, exposing
some dress sock, ask yourself this: Do you like what you see? You
should. Your socks should have as much personality as—if not more
than—the rest of your outfit. You've got two ways to go.
Match 'Em Up—The Conservative Way...
When choosing dress socks, the basic rule is to consider the suit
instead of the shoe—in other words, if you're wearing a navy suit with
black or brown shoes, reach for navy socks.
...or Flash Some Color
You can tell a lot about a guy by glancing at his ankles. Is he a
stick-to- the-rules type—the kind who dutifully matches his socks to his
pants every morning? Or is he the type who understands that dressing
well often means dressing with a rebel streak? We think you can pair a
boldly patterned or colored dress sock with pretty much anything—a sharp
suit, elegant pants, or, say, a pair of dark jeans. Just look for
stripes or colors that complement your look up top (maybe matching your
shirt or tie) while contrasting with your pants or shoes. And don't
worry if you break a rule or two—that's the point.
Socks this bold work one of two ways: Either they pop against a
completely neutral outfit (white shirt, dark suit and tie), or they
complement what's going on upstairs. Could be a red tie, could be a
yellow oxford.
18. The White Powder That Will Get You Hooked
"I used to think that keeping a bottle of talc around was like reaching
for hair tonic or witch hazel—you know, old-guy stuff. But then this
magazine—and pretty much every fashion designer and J.Crew
mannequin—started telling us that we've got to go sockless (see right)
in the summer months. Looks cool, feels cool. Except, that is, when your
feet are a swampy, sweaty mess. So now, suddenly, I'm one of those guys
who use talcum powder obsessively. I give my wingtips or boat shoes a
dusting with it every morning before I head to the office. My feet slide
right in, and they actually do feel cool. Of course, one dusting
doesn't completely keep me from sweating on brutally hot and humid days;
the stuff's not magic powder. That's why I keep a stopgap bottle in my
desk drawer."—Adam Rapoport, GQ style editor
19. Show Some Ankle
Going sockless is a quick way to invigorate everything from a trim suit
to short-cropped khakis. But there's a sensible way to pull it off. Do
you really want to walk around all day not wearing socks with nice
leather shoes?
Thought so. Besides talcum powder, consider loafer socks—they're so
low-cut they're essentially invisible. We like the ones from
Bananarepublic.com. Buy a bunch and wear them all summer long.
The Cheat Sheet
• Your dress shoes should be as contoured as your suits. Say no to square toes.
• Black lace-ups are the most dependable and versatile shoes you can own.
• Real dress shoes have leather soles...
• ...but there are now plenty of quality
rubber-soled options available.
• Take care of your shoes: taps on the heels and
toes, cedar shoe trees when you're not wearing them.
• Yes, you can—and should—wear sneakers
with a suit. But keep them simple and understated.
